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THE 



rr<^,f' 



TAILORS' TRANSFER; 



OR, 



A NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM 



OF 



MEASUREMENT 



AND 



GARMENT CUTTING. 



BY ,/ 



WILLIAM R. ACTON, 

OF VIRGINIA. 



PRINTED BY JAMES YOUNG 
LITHOGRAPHY OF E. WEBER & CO. 

1846. 



THE 



TAILOES' TKANSFER; 



OR, 



A NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM 



OF 



MEASUREMENT 



AND 



GARMENT CUTTING. 



BY 



V-'' 



WILLIAM R. ACTON, 

OF VIRGINIA. 




\>' 



2^ ^ 2& ^ 22 ^ <l> ^ 21 a 

PRINTED BY JAMES YOUNG 
^, .-^ LITHOGRAPHY OF E. WEBER & CO. 

1846. 







-)J-* 



Entered according to the act of Congress, in tbe year 1846, by W I L L I A M K. 
ACTON, in the Clerk's oliice of the District Court of the Maiyland District. 

CERTIFICATES. 



To show the high estimation in which the Tailors' Trans- 
fer is held by those who have tested its merits by practical 
use as subscribers, we append below the copies of a few of the 
many certificates that we have received from the Master Tai- 
lors of Baltimore, in which city the System was first introduced 
for sale, in March 1846. 

Wm. R. Acton, Esq.: 

Sir: — I have carefully examined your "■Transfer Systeiri" oi Measure- 
ment, and find it better adapted in my opinion, to get a perfectly correct of 
Measurement the human frame than any other System that has come under 
my observation, and as a more unequivocal evidence of the above, I do 
hereby gladly subscribe to the work. Yours, &,c. 

(Signed) JAMES JONES, Draper and Tailor, 
Baltimore, March Zlst, 1846. No. 28 South street. 

Wm. R. Acton, Esq.: 

Sir: — I have examined most thoroughly your new System of fMeasure- 
ihent, and believe it to be the most perl'ect plan for getting a correct mea- 
sure of any thing I have ever met with, as also the Transferring of the 
Measurement to the cloth. I therefore beg to subscribe to the work. 

Respectfully, &c. 
(Signed) ROBERT HALL, 

Jpril 6, 1846. No. 13 South Gay street, Baltimore. 

This is to certify that we believe Wm. R. Acton's ^'Transfer Si/s- 
tevi" of Measurement, to be the most correct that we have ever seen, 
and therefore cheerfully subscribe to the same. 

(Signed) WELLS & KEADY, 

Ballo., Jlpril 7, 1816. Corner of Liberty and Baltimore-sts. 

Baltimore, April 10th, 1846. 
Wm. R. Acton, Esq.: 

I feel it to be no more than ray duty to yourself, and the Trade, to add 
my voice to the very high and flattering testimonials of my brother trades- 
men of our city, as to the merits of your new System, the "Tailors' 'Trans- 
fer." Being already somewhat acquainted with several other Systems, I 
unhesitatingly believe yours to be the best, upon all points that has ever 
fallen within the reach of my observation. Yours, truly, 

(Signed) C. G. PETERS, Jr., No. 5 South street. 

Mr. Wm. R. Acton: 

Dear Sir:— We have given your "Transfer System'" a full examina- 
tion, and we feel bound to say, that for accuracy of Measurement, and as a 
rule for cutting by Transferring the Measurement to the cloth, that it is far 
beyond any rule within our knowledge, and we have used nearly all the 
rules now extant in this country, that are known to the Trade. We further 
do most earnestly recommend it to the adoption of the Trade, and feel 
safe in saying that they will find it to be all that we represent it. 

(Signed) J. TITTLE &, SON, No. 23 South street. 

Jpril 7, 1846. 



C(4 l^-3'50 



/ 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



Whenever any great invention, or any thing new or novel 
is broiiglit into existence, public opinion — that great aristo- 
cratic critic — always demands that its originator should give 
good and sufficient reasons for the innovation. In present- 
ting himself, therefore, to the public, the Author deems it 
proper to make the following statements in regard to this 
System, which is peculiarly and entirely his own, and dif- 
fers from, and possesses, in his estimation, many decided ad- 
vantages over every other now in use. 

1st. This System is founded upon mathematical and 
philosophical principles. 

2d. It will get the exact measure of the human form in 
every particular, with great certainty and accuracy. 

3d. The Cutter is less liable to mistakes in transferring 
the measure to the cloth than in other Systems. 

4th. The use of "Protractors," "Water-Levels,'^ and all 
the useless aids of other Systems now in use, which are 
better calculated to mislead than to guide the inexperienced 
learner, are, in this System, entirely dispensed with. 

5th. The instrument for measuring is so formed as to 
establish two pivots, or starting points ; one in front of the 
scye, running parellel with the arm-pit to the centre of the 
back : the other, six inches below the arm-pit, running per- 
pendicularly down. 

6th. By means of this instrument, is ascertained the true 
point of the scye, and the relative position in proper pro- 
portion of all the prominent points necessary in Garment 
Cutting. 

7th. The division and application of the scye measure 
forms a most important feature in this System. 

Every experienced Cutter must have observed that in bad 
fitting coats, whatever other faults they may have, all the 
wrinkles converge to the front and bottom of the scye. 
Hence, the advantage of this System is, that these impor- 
tant places are made the starting points, and all difficulty re- 
moved by having a proper foundation or base line. 



There are other Systems, founded upon principles purely 
mathematical, and admirably adapted to the measurement 
of well formed persons, but defective in application to every 
variety of form. And those Systems which are founded on 
the principle of a division of measures, are especially de- 
fective in this particular. Thus, persons of the same height, 
and the same measurement round the breast and waist, may 
differ materially in the form of the shoulder — high or low — 
and the place of the scye — farther backward or forward — 
and, of course the relative position of all the other impor- 
tant points ; yet, on the principle of a division of measures, 
the transfer to cloth will be the same for both, which 
should, by no means, be the case. 

This System, the Author thinks from experience, sup- 
plies these deficiencies, and adapts itself to every form, so 
that any Cutter, with a little care and practice, may make a 
correct transfer of measurement to cloth. And such is its 
simplicity that it may be easily understood, and no Cutter 
need make a single mark in drafting, which he cannot 
clearly understand. 

During many years, the Author has had an opportunity 
of testing, to his satisfaction, all the different Systems known 
to the Trade, and believing them to be radically defective in 
the most important object aimed at, viz : The art of getting 
the exact shape of every variety of form — he came to the 
conclusion that this could be accomplished, and he now pre- 
sents to the Trade — "The Tailors' Transfer" — the re- 
sult of close application and experience, and which, he 
confidently believes, unites all the desirable qualities defi- 
cient in every other System of measuring that has come to 
his notice. 

There has been existing in the minds of many, a strong 
prejudice against discoveries or improvements in art, which 
do not emanate from some populous and renowned city ; as, 
in our country — New York — Philadelphia^ — Boston, &c. 
But such prejudice is without just foundation. All the 
great discoveries of the age are not confined to cities. 
Many have originated in places of much obscurity. Dis- 
coveries dependent upon an exercise of the mind require 
close, patient thinking ; and, in truth, the retired village, or 
even the country itself, is better adapted to facilitate this 
than the noisy bustling city. This prejudice, however, is 
confined to narrow, illiberal, unenlightened minds, and be- 
longs properly to a past age. The present is an age of light. 



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Men are becoming more liberal in their views, and do not 
regard so much the place whence a discovery or improve- 
ment may emanate, as its real merits. The Author does 
not pretend to infaUibihty, or, that his System h perfect^ in 
the strict sense of the term ; yet, he firmly believes that it is 
better suited to the wants of the Trade than any with which 
he is acquainted. It is both simple and accurate. Hoping 
for a just appreciation of his labors, he confidently submits 
his System to the candid examination of the liberal members 
of the Trade, and the public generally. 

WILLIAM R. ACTON. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 

1. — Measure round the breast. 

2.— " " " waist. 

Apply the instrument as represented on the Fig's A & B. 

3. — Measure from 1 to 2. 

4.— " " 1 to 3. 

5.— " " 1 to 4. 

6. — Find measure on strap at 1. 

•7 u u a u o 

8. — Bring the measure from upper pivot over the shoulder 
to 2. 

9. — From same pivot measure close under the arm to 1. 

10. — Do. length of waist in front to 5. 

11. — From lower pivot to 7 — it being half distance, from 
top of strap, at 2 to 3. 

12. — From lower pivot to 3. 

13._ " " " to 6. 

You are now done with the instrument. 

14. — Measure from centre of back, between the shoulder 
bones to the shoulder joints, for widtli of back. 

15. — Continue to the elbow. 

16.— " " wrist. 

17. — Measure round the scye. 

18.— " " " elbow. 

19.— " " " wrist. 



FIGURE No. 1. 
This figure embraces the fundamental principles of the 
System, of which a proper understanding is necessary. It 



6 

comprehends the following proposition, viz : that the third 
of the circumference of any given circle is the diameter. 
The application of this principle will be fully illustrated in 
the following explanations. Having ascertained the third 
and sixth of measure 17, proceed to draft. 
Explanation 1st. 

Figure No. 2. — Back of dress or frock coat — Line A, edge 
of cloth. Go down A length of waist, and length of skirt, 
and square out lines B and C. Go in on B about two 
inches, make a dot, and thence draw line D. Come down 
on line D the measure taken from 1 to 2, make a dot, and 
go up one-sixth of scye measure and square out lines E 
and F. Go from terminus of line D on line B one-sixth of 
scye measure, make a dot, and from it lay your ruler to top of 
back at 1, and square out line G. Go out on line F the 
measure taken for width of back, make a dot, and from 
thence to terminus of line D on line B draw line I. Go 
out on line G one-sixth of scye measure, thence draw line 
H, and form back scye as per figure. Form curve J, and 
draw lines K and L as per figure. 

Explanation 2cl. 

Figure No. 3. — Plate 3 — Forepart of dress or frock coat, 
with the back appended — After laying the back in whatever 
position you can get the forepart to best advantage, mark top 
of side-seam by the back, and continue out line E of the 
back across the forepart — then go out on it from cen- 
tre of back what your customer measured on strap from 
upper pivot to 2, make a dot, and square up and down lines 
A and B. Go down on B six inches, and make a dot for 
lower pivot. The instrument is now represented on the 
cloth as it was on the customer. Continue F of the back 
to line A. Draw line M from upper pivot to ] at top of back 
No. 1. Go out on line F from back scye one-sixth of scye 
measure, make a dot, and from thence sweep C to upper 
pivot, and if you see proper form a circle. Then from 
upper pivot come in on line M one-sixth of scye measure, 
make a dot and square up line D. Apply the 9th measure 
from upper pivot around curve C to 1 at top of back No. 1 
as per dotted lines, and bring the back in or out as the 
measure requires, making the star on line E of the back a 
pivot ; (but it is seldom, if ever necessary to move the back.) 
Apply back No. 2, as per figure, and from upper pivot 
measure up to 1 at top of back (as per dotted line) what 
the measure calls for on strap at 1. Apply the 8th measure 



/ 



from upper pivot to 2 on the back (as per dotted line) and 
move in or out as the measure requires, to find shoulder 
seam. Form curve K as per figure, then apply the scye 
measure from top of back scye round C and K to find J. 
From upper pivot dra\y line F to 1 at top of back No. 2. 
Go out from centre of back No. 1 on line E across the fore- 
part, half the circumference of the breast, make a dot, and 
from thence, with the left hand on upper pivot sweep curve 
G to line F, and from thence square out line H. Form 
curve J, as per figure. From terminus of sweep G on line 
across forepart, find half the distance to upper pivot, make a 
dot, and from thence square up line E for front point of 
shoulder. Find half distance on back, (figure No. 2,) on 
line D between lines B and E, make a dot, and bring the 
ring of the inch measure to lower pivot, (figure No. 3,) 
from thence apply the 11th and 12th measures (as per dotted 
lines) bringing in the back accordingly, and form side seam L 
as per figure. From upper pivot sweep curve M by the 10th 
measure. While the back is in a closing position, measure 
across the waist half of measure No. 2 to curve M ; then 
apply 13th measure from lower pivot down line B ; from 
thence to curve M draw line N, and form curve O, as per 
figure. Go out from sweep G about 2| inches, and form 
line P, as per figure.* 

Iii^planation 3d. 

Figure No. 4. — Skirt of dress coat — Draw line Q, about 
1^ inches from line K. Square out line S, and go out 
what the lower part of your forepart measures. Come down 
on line Q, one-third of scye measure, and from thence 
draw line T. Form lines U and V, as per figure or fancy. f 

Explanation 4th. 

Figure No. 5. — Sleeve of dress or frock coat — Line A, 
edge of cloth, and B top. From B to C is one-fourth of 
scye measure. Square out line C and go out on it one- 
eighth of scye measure, go out one-fourth ; go out one- 
half for width of sleeve. Sweep E from the eighth and D 
from the fourth. Then apply the 15th measure for the el- 

* It will be perceived that we give two plans for getting the front shoul- 
der point : the one proving the correctness of the other. For if the mea- 
sure be taken correctly on strap at 1 this point will— in a general way — 
come exactly to where the lines D and E cross each other — but I would 
recommend the latter mode of getting it as preferable. If a gore be taken 
out of the forepart at line B, as represented in figure No. 3, what is taken 
out must always be added to the side seam at L. 

t The dotted W shows the skirt when no gores arc taken out. 



8 

bow, then apply IGth measure for length of sleeve^ 
From line A go out one-third of scye measure for bend of 
eleeve. 

Explanation 5th. 

Figure No. 6,~— Skirt of frock coat — The lines A, B, 
C are the same as Q,, S, T, of the dress coat skirt. From 
the terminus of line C square down line D, and go down it 
one-third scye measure, and square out E. Go out on E 
one- third of scye measure, and from thence draw hue F as 
per figure. Curve G is marked by lower part of forepart, 
as per figure. While you run your right hand on G, sweep 
H with the left. 

Explanation 6tli, 

Figure No. 1. ^Forepart of Vest — Draw line A at edge 
of cloth. Go out from A one- fourth of your breast measure 
and draw line B parellel with A ; then making the junc- 
tion of lines B and K your pivot, sweep C by one-sixth of 
scye measure less than length of Vest; thence measure 
down on line A one-half of scye measure, and square out 
line D. Go up on line A from D one-sixth of scye measure 
and square out line E. Find half distance on line D be- 
tween lines A and B, thence square upline F to C ; thence 
making the terminus of lines B and C your pivot, sweep G. 
On line C find half distance between A andF, thence draw 
line H to a smooth j unction with sweep G. Go in from A 
on line E one-sixth of scye measure, there form I, as per 
figure. U and T represent the collar. 

Explanation 7th. 

Figure No. 8. — Back of Vest — Square out line L. Con- 
tinue line D of the forepart, and come out from A one-fourth 
of scye measure, thence draw line N. Come out one-fourth 
of breast measure, and draw line M parellel with line A on 
L. Make the terminus of N a pivot, and sweep O. Go 
out on O from M one-sixth of scye measure, thence to half 
distance on line D draw line K. Curve S is formed as per 
fiffure. 



m 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 




y __ .-.has 

Zone boo' of the'^TaUors' Trff'- ^^'cm 
^' of Meas'' '^^8" ^^^ Garment Cutp^S- 



184 /' 

^ B No t ansf' ^^ ^^ instrument or book, will 

M .m any 'case be ^^^^d, without my consent, given 

l' over my own >g"ature, and all mfnngments upon, or 

departures P*^ ^^^^ iv\q, will be dealt with according 

to the La'^^ °^ *^^ United States for the regulation of 

§Paj.gpi,-&nd protection of the Patentees. 
WILLIAM R. ACTON. 



1 



tr^'Price of the whole work, with an Instrument of Measure- 
ment and Instructions, $15. Where classes of six can be 
formed, a reasonable reduction will be made. 



Having had but a short time in which to prepare this work 
forpublication, and but little time to devote to a proper selection 
and appointment of Agents, we cannot now announce the 
names of those who will act in that capacity, but intending to 
appoint them in most of the larger cities of the Union, we will 
announce their names and location in the public prints, and in 
our subsequent editions of this work. 



Conservation Resources 

r ia.Fr«P® Tvno I 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 970 991 3 



